What does value taste like?

A common question people have about wine is why they cost what they do. A Sauvignon Blanc from Chile may cost $8.99, while one from New Zealand is $16.99, and one from Sancerre is $39.99. Considering that grapes are the only ingredient, what accounts for the disparity?

It starts in the vineyard

Real estate is a prime reason. Because many wines are defined geographically, their supply is naturally limited; in turn, classic supply vs demand comes into play.

Sancerre is a single village along the Loire River in France. As “Sancerre” can only be made in that village, and it is in demand by wine drinkers around the globe, voilá — it costs significantly more than wines whose material can come from a broader area.

Another factor is vineyard yield. Many official wine regions put limits on the size of the crop. Well-irrigated Chilean vineyards routinely produce more fruit per acre, which makes the price of their finished lower.

The real question

 Back to the operative issue: How/why do cheaper wines taste different from pricier ones? One way is intensity; grapes from lower-yielding vineyards tend to be smaller, giving them a higher skin-to-juice ratio. Since a wine gains most of its flavor and texture from the skins, those limited-production wines typically are more concentrated, complex and impactful.

This is especially true for red wines, which are made with longer skin contact. In the case of our Sauvignon Blanc example, the grape itself is rather bold and acidic; the pricier Sancerre may display higher acidity and a more layered mineral character than its Chilean peers, but whether this makes it taste better is truly a matter of taste. Many people prefer a fruitier white wine; a citrusy California or NZ SB may be their jam.

Aging also impacts price. New (and expensive) oak barrels used to store wine before bottling add to the ultimate cost, as does the length of time wines are held before release.

Context counts

Generally speaking, wine drinkers should expect a more expensive wine to deliver more — more intensity, complexity, length, aromas/flavors; but those qualities do not always make a wine “better,” or even preferable. Taste remains utterly personal, and pleasure often depends on context.

With summer just around the bend, there is most definitely value in “quaffing” wines — that is, not-so-strong, simple wines that are easy on the palate and the wallet. That’s your crisp, cold rosé on a hot afternoon.

Finally, within any category of wine, there are always examples that deliver more than their peers. A conversation with a savvy merchant is the best way to find these!

Bill “Tish” Tisherman, a longtime Bedford resident and former editor of Wine Enthusiast and Beverage Media, develops wine tastings and events via his website, wineforall.com. All Seasons Wine & Spirits in Yorktown is the sponsor of this column.