Fishkill may be a long way from Brussels, but one recent lunch at Dutchess Biercafe made it feel like we crossed an ocean.
Belgium remains one of the world’s most fascinating beer cultures, home to roughly 400 breweries and more than 1,500 beer varieties, from bright Witbiers to monastery-rooted Trappist ales and expressive Lambics. What makes Belgian beer so compelling is the refinement: yeast-driven fruit and spice, lively carbonation, elegant complexity and a food-friendliness that can cut through richness with almost wine-like grace.
That being said, it can be difficult to find a place in the Hudson Valley doing Belgian beer right.
So when I was invited to lunch at a Belgian-style spot in Fishkill, I called shotgun.
Little did I know I’d also be in the presence of a knight.
I was a newbie to Fishkill and didn’t know much about the town itself. Turns out, it’s a charming and bustling Main Street destination full of shops, restaurants, and bars — and very much worth the trip on its own.
Dutchess Biercafe (DBC) sits right in the middle of it all, offering a warm chalet-like vibe with a lively bar on one side, a welcoming dining room on the other, and an adjacent beer garden that should be prime real estate once Hudson Valley spring fully settles in.
Nick and Jess Forlano previously ran bars in Brooklyn and Beacon before opening DBC in 2015. Nick’s love for Belgian beer began during his early days at the legendary Gingerman in New York City, where his first Bosteels Kwak opened the door to deeper explorations with Chimay, Delirium, and beyond.
Paired with trips to Belgium — which Nick described to me as “magical” — he was hooked.
As Nick put it, people who discover Belgian beer often wind up “falling down the Belgian rabbit hole and not coming back.”
“We’ve built the beer list so that someone can walk in knowing nothing about Belgian beer — or be a serious beer nerd — and both feel equally at home,” Nick said.
That was certainly the vibe for our table, which included varying levels of Belgian beer experience.
DBC boasts an impressive 16 Belgian drafts, and we got right to work with a series of 4-ounce tasters.
Bavik Pilsner — light, easy-drinking lager. A favorite with our Gen Z attendees, though I suspect the pitcher format and the Boomers paying the bill helped.
Bosteels Kwak — caramel, honey, banana. KBM’s favorite, beautifully malt-forward and balanced.
Delirium Red — Dark cherry aromatics with a tangy fruit-punch vibe.
De Dolle Oerbier — Figs, raisins, funk, and a pleasantly tart finish.
St. Feuillien Grand Cru — Honeyed and expressive, with the team comparing it to a fuller wheat beer.
Duchesse Chocolate Cherry — Terrific progression from chocolate aroma into bright tart cherry.
Bavik Shandy — House-blended lager and lemonade. PERFECT for a hot beer garden afternoon.
Oude Beersel Salted Tangerine Peel — Tart citrus lambic with a saline edge that paired brilliantly with our waffle-and-ice-cream dessert.
To boot, I’m a bit of a glassware geek, and true to Belgian custom, every pour arrived in its proper vessel, maximizing aroma and presentation.
Other luminaries on the draft board included Chimay, Allagash, St. Bernardus, Rochefort and De Garre.
These are complex beers, and fortunately the staff are deeply versed in the styles and more than happy to guide guests’ choices.
The food program is every bit as broad and compelling as the beer list.
“Chef Kevin Viteri is a Peruvian-American cook who is largely self-taught and a relentless cookbook reader,” Nick said. Our group was grateful for the variety — Belgian, German and Polish influences all make strong appearances — and I fully agree with Nick’s perfect description: “Next level comfort food.”
Naturally, we respectfully toasted Belgium’s national dish: moules (mussels) and frites (fries).
The PEI mussels arrived steeped in an outstanding Red Curry broth of sriracha, garlic, Allagash White, white wine, and coconut milk, and honestly it was a toss-up whether the mussels or the frites dunked in that sauce stole the show.
Staying on theme, I followed with the terrific From Brussels With Bacon, a rich composition of thick-cut bacon, Brussels sprouts, pomegranate, candied pecans, New York maple syrup and apple cider.
Elsewhere, the menu stretches comfortably into German beer-hall territory with The Best of the Wurst, plus schnitzel, pierogis, burgers, soups, salads and inspired sandwiches.
A particularly notable value: $10 mussel pots every Sunday.
So yes… I mentioned I was in the presence of a KNIGHT.
Nick’s work promoting and preserving Belgian beer culture here in the Hudson Valley has been recognized by The Brussels Order of the Knights of the Brewers’ Mash Fork, and he has officially been inducted as an honorary knight.
“Quite surreal," Nick said. "Getting knighted by the Belgian brewers is about the highest compliment you can get for pouring Belgian beer and supporting Belgian beer culture.”
That ceremonial certificate hanging on the wall isn’t décor. It’s well-deserved validation.
If I were planning a spring itinerary: morning hike in the Fishkill area, afternoon stroll through town, then a long lunch or early dinner with Sir Nick and the DBC crew for one of the most authentic Belgian beer experiences this side of Brussels.
Cheers!
Dutchess Biercafe is located at 1097 Main St., in Fishkill. For more information, call, 845-440-7747 or visit thedutchessbiercafe.com. Contact John Bart at TheKatonahBeerMan@gmail.com or visit thekatonahbeerman.wordpress.com.
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