Shifting gears for summer wine

Now that the weather has apparently decided we deserve a summer after last winter, people naturally ramp up outdoor activities — in backyards, on decks, near water.… Here are a few tips on types of wine that fit the season.

Rosé leads the way

And why not? The classic Provençal style — dry, crisp, fruity, unoaked — literally developed in the sunny South of France. Dry rosé is arguably the easiest wine to make — it starts with any red grapes, grown anywhere, with the winemaking process interrupted by removing the color-rich skins while the fermenting juice is still pink. So refreshing rosé is abundant and generally quite affordable. Stylistically, rosés are rarely intense; that mildness dovetails with simple foods, if not mindless relaxation.

No oak, no problem

Summer is prime time for white wine in general, but I add one caveat. Save the oaky/buttery Chardonnays for another day. Icing down full-bodied white wines mutes their character. The refreshment inherent in white wine lies in its zippy acidity; unoaked wines let that zip shine through.

Pinot Grigio theoretically fits the mold of a summer quaffing wine. Ditto Vinho Verde from Portugal, another natural lightweight. But those can be too light to stand up to grilled foods. For more zing and flavor, Sauvignon Blanc leads the way, especially New Zealand expressions, which can be aggressively citrusy.

Other typically unoaked white varietals on my shortlist:

• Austrian Gruner Veltliner, especially with grilled veggies

• Albariños from Spain with anything from the sea

• Italian Vermentino or Gavi; both offer more character than Pinot Grigio

• Finger Lakes dry Riesling; New York’s best white wine, surprisingly versatile

Chillin’ & grillin’ reds

I try not to overthink summer reds. I also try not to overspend. Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Rioja and Pinot Noir are wines that rule from June through August for me. While they may differ in flavor, they are comparable in weight (medium or light) and texture (not rough). Further, they have enough acidity to retain a sense of freshness, as opposed to a dried/stewed fruit character. And again, these wines are typically unbaked.

But the very best thing you can do to make sure your wine is optimized for summer sipping (or quaffing): KEEP IT COOL. We actually keep our reds in the fridge or on ice at least 20 minutes before serving. If wine gets warm (and that can happen fast outdoors), the alcohol and tannin start to jump out… not pleasant. Chilling a red wine on a warm evening is as natural as wearing sunglasses. Try it!

Bill “Tish” Tisherman, a longtime Bedford resident and former editor of Wine Enthusiast and Beverage Media, develops wine tastings and events via his website, wineforall.com. All Seasons Wine & Spirits in Yorktown is the sponsor of this column.