“A New Year’s resolution is something that goes in one year and out the other.”
-Oscar Wilde
New year, same me. No resolutions — just continuing to be kind, have as much fun as possible in this last third of life, and balance health. I remain deeply fortunate: amazing family and friends, and the best job I’ve ever had — exploring and writing about great places for beer, food and fun.
That mission recently led us to a brewery whose mantra immediately resonated: “Anything worth doing takes time. So slow down and stay awhile.”
The core KBM Field Trip Board of Directors has admired Drowned Lands Brewery’s beers for some time. The can art — subtle and mysterious — rewards closer inspection. Though Warwick sits just beyond our usual radius, it was time to head west.
We were joined by a younger family member, Jessy, whose hospitality background provided a welcome counterpoint to our typically Social-Security-eligible perspective.
Warwick lies within a region historically known as the Drowned Lands — fertile lowlands once plagued by flooding from beaver dams and glacial runoff along the Wallkill River. Early settlers eventually drained the marshland, transforming it into some of the most productive agricultural soil in New York State.
That famed black dirt — dark, nutrient-rich earth formed from an ancient glacial lake bed — remains central to the area’s agricultural identity.
“Warwick felt right immediately," said Mike Kraii, the brewery owner. "It’s rich with history, agriculture, and community pride — all inspirations for our brewery name. From the start, we wanted the brand to be a destination.”
The building itself evokes a ski-chalet vibe, but its history runs deeper. Originally constructed as the New York State Training School for Boys in the 1930s, the reformatory drew the attention of Eleanor Roosevelt, who wrote about it in her "My Day" columns.
Drowned Lands opened in 2015 after a massive renovation that preserved only the exterior walls and roof. It is the oldest brewery in Warwick and remains a family-run operation.
Mike grew up in the Northeast, immersed in small towns, back roads, and a strong sense of community. “Being close to nature, working with my hands, and knowing your neighbors were just part of everyday life,” he said. “Those roots still shape how I think about business and hospitality.”
His interest in craft beer evolved gradually. “Craft beer felt more expressive — tied to place and people.” He gravitated toward rustic styles such as farmhouse ales and saisons, citing Allagash White as an early inspiration.
The expansive property offers several inviting spaces to settle into. We posted up on the main floor, where Jessy admired the modern cottagecore bar — rustic charm paired with contemporary function — flanked by wood-aging casks and a large wood-fired oven.
It was our lucky day: a holiday party was underway, complete with a Santa sighting (an avid KBM reader) and a terrific Grateful Dead cover band. Upstairs leans fully rustic, with communal tables and chandeliers reminiscent of a German beer hall.
Outdoor decks on both levels provide sweeping valley and mountain views — enough to guarantee a return visit when warmer weather arrives.
Mike describes the crowd this way: “We welcome locals, families, hikers, and travelers from across the Hudson Valley and beyond. The energy shifts with the season — sometimes quiet and reflective, sometimes lively and celebratory.”
“The beer we create takes its cues from the richest soil in the country — connected to both time and place,” Mike said. “It’s inspired by Old World techniques and modern innovation.”
The rotating list features roughly 20 well-organized offerings across hoppy beers, fruited sours, lagers, stouts, cider and more.
Hoppy: We noted similarities in their juicy offerings but Princewood American Pale Ale stood out for its subtle oak influence and faint smokiness — a profile that might appeal to scotch or mezcal fans. Sow & Gather Foeder IPA delivered sweet, ripe melon notes, its wood-aging lending a mellow finish.
Fruited Sour: Forage & Cultivate — conditioned over fresh peaches, purée, and juice — struck an elegant balance, offering peach cobbler and Bellini vibes without overwhelming acidity.
Lagers: Their flagship Gather House earned team-favorite honors, showcasing spiced biscuit notes with hints of banana cream pie and citrus.
A seasonal spiced ale, conditioned with nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, and vanilla, delivered a welcome nod to a fading beer style.
Across the lineup, creativity is paired with restraint. “Time, patience, and balance matter as much as ingredients,” Mike noted. “Our oak, foeder and barrel-aging program is about artistry, not mass production.”
Non-beer options include local wine, cider, kombucha, coffee, tea, seltzers, and non-alcoholic selections.
“Food here is farm-driven, seasonal and thoughtful,” Mike said. “People expect great beer — they’re often surprised by how consistently good the food is.”
The wood-fired oven anchors the menu, delivering crisp textures and intentional char. Highlights included fennel and sausage pizza; lemon-herb chicken wings with Aleppo chili and buttermilk dip; Moroccan beef tips with spiced labneh and harissa butter; and a vibrant hummus and pita plate finished with pomegranate and za’atar.
The crew delivered a unanimous thumbs-up for Drowned Lands Brewery. It’s an ideal anchor destination, especially when paired with other Hudson Valley stops.
Like much of the craft beer industry, Drowned Lands has faced challenges. “Rising costs, changing habits, and a crowded market,” Mike said. “Our response is staying true to who we are — focusing on quality, hospitality and community rather than chasing trends.”
Anything worth doing takes time. Drowned Lands understands that — and invites you to slow down and stay awhile.
Cheers to That!
The Katonah Beer Man can be reached at TheKatonahBeerMan@gmail.com or visit thekatonahbeerman.wordpress.com. For more information on The Drowned Lands Brewery, visit drownedlands.beer or call 845-986-2337. They are located at 251 State School Road, in Warwick.
Comments
No comments on this item Please log in to comment by clicking here