No matter what else happens this summer, we’ll always have the Knicks. Their playoff run featured a string of remarkable victories, each distinct, and each more exciting than the last. They were not expected to win it all. But smart coaching, unselfish play, and determination propelled them to the top — and into history.
In that spirit, here are some wines that, while perhaps not quite as thrilling, are true over-achievers, ready to have you cheering.
We’ll skip the class on Portuguese grapes, as there are far too many in play, and most are a mouthful. (Trincadeira, anyone?) The key is the vintners’ clear knack for blending their native varieties — and for putting good wine in the bottle at bargain prices. Reds from the Dão, Douro and Alentejo regions sport an earthy edge that works great with grilled foods. And the crisp, light Vinho Verdes may show a little spritz, but oh how they counter summer heat.
Paradoxically, French vignerons spent the entire 20th century perfecting their craft and at the same time resisting change. In 2009 they finally created a category that blessed crossing regional borders for fruit and promoting grape names on labels. “Vin de France” puts French savoir-faire on full display with many excellent table wines under $20. Not fruit grenades, they are bright, balanced and play well with food.
With a nod to America’s 250th, let’s turn attention closer to home. New York’s wine regions are hitting stride as growers continue to match varieties to micro-climates. Finger Lakes Riesling can compete on the world court, so to speak, and a good dry Riesling may change the way you think about “dry” forever.
Vines grow like weeds, and as they age, some varieties (especially red) yield less volume but greater character. In fact, there is now an official registry and seal denoting vineyards at least 35 years or older. For powerful red wines, old-vine Zinfandel is your ticket; it makes a natural partner with spicy BBQ fare.
Spain’s Rioja is not the flashiest red wine, but the Reserva level is consistently reliable. Producers in the region typically make multiple wines, and as Reservas require longer aging, they tend to steer their best grapes into the reserve-level wines. Held longer than reds from other regions, and you can expect these Riojas to be full-flavored and -bodied, but textured for drinking now. Their flexible character works as well with burgers or mac and cheese as with paella.
Bill “Tish” Tisherman, a longtime Bedford resident and former editor of Wine Enthusiast and Beverage Media, develops wine tastings and events via his website, wineforall.com. All Seasons Wine & Spirits in Yorktown is the sponsor of this column.
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