“The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated.”
– Mark Twain
I kick off this column with an analysis of recent (and exaggerated) reports about the demise of craft beer. Then, I’ll share a profile of a fantastic new brewery: Greenwich Brewing Co. in Connecticut.
The state of craft beer
Fellow beer journalist Dave Infante writes in VinePair: “The country went from around 1,500 breweries in 2010 to around 9,500 in 2020, an astonishing uptick well north of 500 percent.”
Unsustainable. This past year, those stats reversed: 355 openings and 399 closings.
I reached out to Hutch Kugeman, head brewer and instructor at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and president of the New York State Brewers Association, for his take.
“This is mostly a sign of an industry that has reached maturity,” Kugeman said. “The fact that our exponential growth lasted this long is a testament to the hard work of the people in our industry!”
Changes are clearly afoot, driven by several factors:
• Economic pressures: A decade ago, lower interest rates made opening a brewery easier and reduced the urgency to brew exceptional beer.
• Canned cocktails and seltzers: The variety of alcohol options has exploded, leading to more at-home consumption and fewer brewery visits.
• Too many choices: Even I, KBM, get overwhelmed in the beer aisle, with hundreds of options. This complexity often drives people, myself included, to default to simplicity. Lately, I’ve been on a lager kick—beer that tastes like beer. While I still enjoy exploring new styles, a crisp, well-made lager is my go-to.
• Cutting back: Non-alcoholic beers and other flavorful alternatives are gaining traction, offering consumers more ways to enjoy without alcohol.
So, where does the industry go from here?
• Existing breweries: Kugeman encourages breweries to “focus on the things that made them successful in the first place: quality, innovation, providing an amazing customer experience.”
• New breweries: He advises, “It’s a challenging business… be passionate about beer, but good business practices, great hospitality, and meeting your customers’ needs are equally important.”
I’ll continue to keep my finger on the pulse (or pint?) of this transitional period. Despite these challenges, new breweries, like Greenwich Brewing Co., are showing how to embrace these shifts with a forward-thinking playbook.
Field Trip: Greenwich Brewing Co.
Our daughter (aka DoKBM) was in town for the holidays, so we gathered a mix of her friends—future world leaders, no doubt—and our usual crew to visit Greenwich Brewing Co. (GBC). It was a great chance to get different perspectives.
The Owners
GBC opened in September 2024, co-founded by Randy Kemka and Kent Kolbig, longtime community members and veterans of the craft beer industry with experience in 16 other breweries.
The Vibe
The multi-tiered, nautical-themed space feels welcoming, with tall ceilings, natural light, long high-top tables encouraging socialization, and TVs for sports fans. Groups of all sizes were enjoying themselves during our visit.
The Beer
Randy’s beer journey started, like mine, with “value beer”—in his case, Meister Brau (aka Mr. Beer). But college introduced him to the OG craft standard-bearer: Sierra Nevada.
For now, GBC’s brewing happens off-premises at other facilities in their portfolio in New Jersey.
“Our liquids come from a collaboration of many founders and industry experts. We have brought all of our skills together to create the most exquisite liquids we can produce,” Kemka said.
Our group enthusiastically agreed. GBC offers a wide variety of options—something for everyone—but unlike many breweries with large selections, every beer we tried hit the mark. That’s a rare feat.
We used our proven Flights-Notes Methodology — where everyone tastes the same beer simultaneously and compares notes. I highly recommend this approach when visiting breweries!
Here’s a sample of our notes:
• Catamaranic Hazy DIPA: “Feels like the beach,” piney and citrus bouquet.
• Tack American Porter: Coffee notes, “lighter than I thought.”
• Christmas Ale: Spicy nose, gingerbread, orange (KBM fave).
• Boga English Brown Ale: Bourbon notes, classic style.
• Day Sailing Strawberry Lemonade Sour: Pixie stick vibes, “the best sour I’ve ever had.”
• Hop Anchor NE IPA: Citrus-forward, bright grapefruit.
• CT Lager: Crisp, a crowd-pleaser.
• Cardinal Red Ale: Cross between amber and brown ale.
• Vanilla Porter: Strong vanilla aroma, mellow sweetness.
One of our participants—a retired elementary school teacher who taught some of the 20-somethings in our group—offered a sage lesson: “If everyone liked vanilla, it would be a boring world.” Fact.
The food
After sampling stellar brews, we dove into GBC’s creative food menu. Everything is made in-house, with options ranging from appetizers to salads, burgers, sandwiches and a kids’ menu. The dry rub wings were a particular highlight—EXCELLENT!
In an industry facing increasing competition and consolidation, breweries like Greenwich Brewing Co. are proving that a focus on quality, community and innovation ensures the craft beer revolution is far from over.
Check them out! They are located at 109 Greenwich Ave., Greenwich, Conn.; entrance is in back with parking; Reach them at 203-485-0400 or greenwichbrewingcompany.com
The Katonah Beer Man can be reached at TheKatonahBeerMan@gmail.com or visit thekatonahbeerman.wordpress.com.
Comments
No comments on this item Please log in to comment by clicking here